This guide explains the concept of “angling” in World of Tanks (WoT).
Angling is turning the hull (body) of your tank so that the front of your tank is pointed slightly to the left or right of your target. Angling your tank provides the following benefits:
- Incoming shells may deflect/ricochet/bounce off your hull armor
- Your effective armor is increased for both your front hull armor and your side hull armor
Angling can significantly enhance your survivability, especially against enemy tanks that would otherwise penetrate your hull at the point of shell impact.
How Much Do I Angle My Hull?
Short answer: it depends on how thick your side hull armor is relative to your front hull armor.
As general rule, you want to angle your hull to the extent that you can increase your effective front armor without over-exposing your side armor.
Here are the impact angles and effective armor multipliers based on the angle of your hull:
|Hull Angle1||Front Hull Impact Angle||Side Hull Impact Angle||Front Hull Effective Armour Multiplier||Side Hull Effective Armour Multiplier2|
|< 20°||< 20°||> 70°||Between 100% and 106.41%||Ricochet3|
1 There are select tanks, such as the IS-3, that have a “pike-nose” front, and for such tanks the front of your hull should be pointing at the enemy tank, i.e. you would want to maintain a hull angle of 0°.
2 The tracks of your tank add 20mm of armor if hit, so the effective side hull armor is increased when a shell has to penetrate the tracks and the side hull.
3 Note: If the AP or APCR shell caliber is 3 times or more than the nominal thickness of the armour (such as a 120mm shell hitting a 40mm thick plate), no ricochet will happen even if the impact angle is more than 70° from normal.
Tanks with low armor may not benefit meaningfully from the increased effective armor gained by angling, since increasing a small number won’t matter much, in which case you may want to not angle your hull so that maintain the smallest possible silhouette.
With the above table in mind, here are some examples for recommended hull angle when your tank is in the open field without available physical cover, taking into account only the thickness of the front and side hull armor.
|Tank||Front Hull Armour||Side Hull Armour||Recommended Hull Angle|
|Tier 4 Matilda||75mm||70mm||40°|
|Tier 5 KV-1||75mm||75mm||45°|
|Tier 8 Tiger II||150mm (sloped)||80mm||25°|
|Tier 10 E-100||200mm (sloped)||130mm + 60mm spaced||35°|
|Tier 10 IS-4||140mm (sloped)||160mm||35°|
Longer answer: to determine how much to angle your hull, you need to consider not only the thickness of your front and side hull armor but also the slope and sizable weak spots.
For example, the tier 10 IS-4 Soviet heavy tank has a frontal weak spot in the Lower Front Glacis, which at 0° angling has an effective armor of 209mm and is easily penetrated by most tier 9-10 tanks. However, the IS-4 has thick side hull armor of 160mm, so the driver is able to angle at 35° to boost the effective armor of the Lower Front Glacis to 255mm while still maintaining a high effective armor value of 279mm for the side hull.
This video covers the basic concepts of angling:
The following video provides a more advanced look at angling techniques, using the footage from the battle on my tier 10 IS-4 in which I earned the “Ace Tanker” Mastery achievement:
The following diagrams illustrate the concept of angling in various situations.
As Crueldwarf posted below, another angling technique is “sidescraping” in which you only expose your angled side to the enemy. With this technique you don’t have to peek-a-boo, you just whale on your opponent.Sidescraping tends to work best when:
- You have thick or angled side armor, and / or you are sidescraping at such an angle that shots that hit your side will likely ricochet
- You are trying to cover obvious weakspots in your frontal armor, e.g. tank’s engine behind lower glacis for some German tanks, the hatch on the right front of the Churchill 1, etc
- You are fine with getting “tracked” (tracks knocked off, which immobilizes the tank), and you want your tracks on the exposed side to absorb damage that was meant for your HP instead
- You have a high RoF (Rate of Fire) gun and want to maximize your shots per minute, and your opponent for whatever reason is going to be in your line of sight for an extended window of time